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Myrtle perfumery

 

A pretty Mediterranean elegantly scented: myrtle

The small shrub known since the dawn of time, especially since ancient times when it was dedicated to the goddesses of love Aphrodite and Venus. The myrtle was therefore part, with the olive tree and the laurel, of the wreaths of leaves that the newlyweds wore in order to bring them good luck, but also of the crown that was then attributed to great champions. This wedding tradition is also still present today in some Mediterranean countries.

Since the Middle Ages, the myrtle was used to manufacture thanks to the distillation of flowers and leaves an exquisite floral water and famous Angel Water. Obviously, myrtle inspired perfumers who early used it in chypre scents for men.

The essential oil of myrtle and male chypre perfumes and Oriental

The undisputed and indisputable reign masculine aromatic fragrance made honoring this sacred plant and what so fragrant myrtle. Used in aromatic chypre fragrance, myrtle unique beauty of its resinous perfume and honey in top notes or even hints of heart.

In 1981, Antaeus by Chanel offered these gentlemen a juice which exhales the traditional formula of Coty chypre while adding the strength of aromatic accords of sage and myrtle in top notes and a touch of animal notes. which reinforces its powerful wake. In 1985, La Nuit by Paco Rabanne also offered a chypre fragrance based on aromatic top notes of myrtle, bergamot and mugwort, this time exhaling green and fruity notes that were, to say the least, original in the men's range! It would therefore seem that myrtle actively participates in the revival of chypre perfumes proposed by the nose in the 80s because a few years later, myrtle even becomes a heart note for a large chypre with leather facets Boss Spirit by Hugo Boss.

The scents of myrtle also evoke, of course, the delicate scents of the Mediterranean coasts where it still grows today. Not surprisingly therefore, the myrtle is a raw material ideal for woody citrus juice or who want to breathe the sweet southern scents. Let us quote the marvelous Acqua d'estate essenza by Ermenegildo Zegna, Blu Mediterraneo 'Mirto' by Acqua di Parma or even Costa Azzurra by Tom Ford.

Finally, the oriental family uses the lovely myrtle top note to detonate spicy notes and exotic while providing gentle but frank attack. Let us quote the perfumes Ambre Sultan of Serge Lutens or even Ambre Précieux Maître Parfumeur et Gantier.

It is therefore difficult to ignore that myrtle is the raw material for men's perfumes in search of aromatics, fresh and biting notes, and even sweeter and flowery. With regard to the feminine perfume, if some juices are mixed, such as L'Eau Trois by Diptyque or Vintage Gardenia by Jo Malone, rare are the myrtle-based perfumes dedicated to women. However, let us quote them precisely because they are still rare, Caron had dared the myrtle in base note of a flowery in 1939 with Alpona and much later came out in 1989 White Garden of Master Perfumer and Gantier. Ladies, what if you steal your husbands' perfumes to discover myrtle?

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