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Heliotrope in perfumery

What is heliotrope

Heliotropes are plants belonging to the Boraginaceae family, that is to say herbaceous plants that produce essential oils. They are also called “Herbes de Saint Fiacre”. The latter owe their name to the fact that their leaves turn towards the sun. In total, there are about 250 species in the world, the latter mainly inhabiting the subtropics. In Europe, they are more particularly located in the Mediterranean region. However, those most commonly used in perfumery are heliotropes originating in South America. The latter have a blue, purple or white tint and are often equated with the spring season.

Heliotrope in perfumery

Heliotropin is an aromatic compound that was discovered in the second half of the 19th century. Its scent is now extracted using the head space technique, a method developed in the 1970s and aimed at reconstituting the natural scents of a flower as they exist in nature and without damaging them. However, it also happens that its smell is reproduced in the laboratory from other raw materials. Heliotrope brings a floral touch to feminine or masculine perfumes, at the same time vanilla, suave and balsamic. It thus gives more creaminess to the perfumes which contain it and in this sense are somewhat reminiscent of lilac. Generally speaking, heliotrope is a very fragrant material. If some people almost recognize the scent of a madeleine in fresh butter,However, it does not lack character and has a peppery facet similar to that of the carnation.

While heliotrope is regularly used in current perfumes, it should be noted that it reached its peak with its presence in L'Heure Bleue, the famous perfume from the Guerlain house. Likewise, a perfume of Reminiscence was entirely devoted to him. It is logically called Heliotrope and was created in 2013. Contained in an opaque green bottle that says a lot about its aromatic facet, it does not however skimp on gluttony. So, it would look almost more like a macaroon than a heliotrope! Never mind, it at least has the merit of making people talk about this ingredient that is still too little known and yet so widely used. What is more, it is perfectly anchored in the sparkling and bewitching universe of the Réminiscence brand.

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