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Coriander in perfumery

Coriander through the ages

This small aromatic umbelliferous herb is native to the eastern Mediterranean. The Romans and the Greeks used coriander to preserve their meat Moreover, for the anecdote, one even found coriander in the tomb of the famous Egyptian Tutankhamun, it is to say if the small aromatic has been known since the dawn of time! However, its use in cooking as in pharmacopoeia was not necessarily to everyone's taste because its smell, for some, reminded that of the bedbug. Which would have given it its name, in ancient Greek koris meaning bedbug!
However, coriander leaves and seeds have been used for centuries in various oriental culinary traditions. So much so that today 40% of coriander seed production would be used for the preparation of the famous Indian or Indonesian curries! As for the leaves, they are mainly used in the manufacture of traditional Moroccan or Algerian dishes.
Logically enough, the perfume industry took a keen interest in this little plant which can be the basis for the creation of multiple scents.

Coriander, an aromatic note in many masculine scents

Coriander is part of the aromatic notes family in the world of men's perfume. Particularly appreciated by these gentlemen for the fresh and lively notes that it provides as a top note, coriander often appears in many so-called sporting or manly perfumes. Thus, woods or masculine ferns combine with great ease with aromatic notes of coriander to provide fresh juices spiced up with invigorating scents such as certain fragrances from Thierry Mugler's A * Men range. However, the olfactory family of aromatics being very popular with men in recent years, many perfumers have developed coriander in citrus aromatic accords or even aquatic aromatics such as Chrome by Azzaro.
Finally, when it comes to talking about coriander seed, the scents are more spicy and therefore easily adaptable to masculine oriental scents. Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford is the perfect example of this new range which combines oud wood, which is currently very popular, with coriander seed to highlight leather and animal fragrances.

Thus, it seems that the male sex has definitely adopted coriander for its favorite perfumes. However, let us not forget that in feminine fragrances, the aromatic notes of coriander also have their place, although they are generally used differently. Aromatic chypres or feminine floral chypres like to use coriander to bring a fresh and tangy top note like L'Eau d'Hermès. On the other hand, feminine Orientals mix coriander leaves and seeds to obtain intoxicating and spicy wakes such as the famous Coco by Chanel.

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