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Bitter orange in perfumery

The bitter orange and its sources of precious essences of neroli and petitgrain

Native to India and China, the bitter orange or wild orange, has grown for centuries like its cousins ​​sweet orange or lemon trees on the gentle Mediterranean hills of Italy, Spain or Morocco. In summer, the branches of this delicate citrus fruit are covered with very fragrant flowers which will subsequently produce a small fruit called bigarade, which is often consumed as a marmalade.

However, the intoxicating and delicate scent of this wild orange tree obviously stimulated the curiosity and creativity of perfumers. Thus the bitter orange flowers can produce neroli essence or orange blossom absolute. As for the leaves and branches they produce, after steam distillation, essence of petitgrain and Brouts water or even essence of orange leaves. All these raw materials are widely used in perfumery for their respective qualities.

Bigarade, neroli and petitgrain in perfumes

The zest of bigarade as the essential oil of petitgrain offer both woody and hesperidic scents while delicately bringing out the flowery note of neroli. Quite naturally therefore, the bitter orange as well as the oils and essences obtained from its leaves and its branches, will compose with delight citrus scents for both men and women.

Obviously, hesperids always remain associated with Eau de Cologne, the oldest and greatest dignitary of this olfactory family. However the noses have never ceased to seek to renew the genre by offering new fragrances thanks to more original citrus fruits, new aromatic herbs or woody raw materials still unknown. The bigarade thus makes it possible to renew the citrus genre thanks to its tangy fragrances so particular and delicately flowery while remaining bitter and powerful.

The creator Jean-Claude Ellena and his perfume Cologne Bigarade, wanted to reinterpret the famous Eau de Cologne under the accents of the new millennium by adding the bigarade to bring a touch of bitterness to a mixed juice that only needed to be tasted. renew. Other big names continued this movement of renewal with the bigarade by offering musky hesperids such as Flower by Kenzo La Cologne or even woody-spicy citrus fruits such as Eau des Merveilles by Hermès.

As for the masculine scents based on top notes of bigarade, they are particularly distinguished by their woody facets, like D'Arsène Lupine Dandy by Guerlain or the astonishing Eau d'Icare by Sisley.

The bigarade therefore has multiple advantages: citrus it offers fresh and powerful citrus notes, flowers it creates the magnificent essence of neroli, woody it creates the essential oil of petit grain. In addition, each of these fragrances can be metamorphosed at will according to the agreements that we want to create. Lolita Lempicka's pretty fruity and gourmet oriental L or the citrus leather Je suis un Homme are examples of the many possible variations offered by the pretty bigarade.

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